Chapter 20 Aveo 3 in 1 Nav/Position/Strobe lights

These draw 7 amps max.   There's a wire to sync the strobe flash.  The number of LEDs lighting for the strobe function changes whether the Nav lights are on.  You'll see spots after you look at the strobes when they're lit.  Fairing block attached temporarily with screws.   I added another block and sanded down to fair in as shown in the plans diagram.

Chapter 20 hinge mods - Teflon tube inserts & click bonds replace screws.

One of the easiest mods which eliminates play and fretting of the hinges. A teflon tube is inserted a with smaller hinge pin and screws replaced with click bonds.

A Dremel with a router head attachment and depth set to create a recess deep enough to a click bond.  To ensure the click bonds are parallel when floxing them in, I used a 1x2 block with holes to keep the click bonds straight.    A 1" two ply BID strip was applied over the click bonds. 

Rudder prepped for click bonds.   

Chapter 20 Right Wing Rudder

Right rudder is nearly done.   Spring installation is next.

Video:

Right rudder test fit.

Chapter 20 Left Wing 9/6/2015

Left wing nearly complete.   Still needs spring (on order).   

Chapter 20 Step 7 09/01/2015

Left rudder hinges drilled and test fit with click bonds.   

Chapter 20 Step 7 08/30/2015

Rudder hinges going on after layups cured.

The hidden rudder bell horn results in odd placement of the attachment holes on the bottom hinge.   Click Bonds were ordered and will be used to eliminate the exposed screw heads like you might be able to see on the ailerons.

Also, where the extra lay ups are to reinforce the hinges are, should have been clamped down similar to how the hard points are done in the center spar.   This would provide a flatter mounting surface for the hinges.

And... the -6 hinge has to be trimmed to fit as its to wide.   Alternatives may be do take out more foam or order the -5 hinge instead.   

And the last tidbit is, don't leave the hinge pin in if you're cutting the hinges with a band saw.   The blade will spin the pin and it will remove the annealing.   The pins may either be stainless steel or hard carbon steel and react with aluminum if not coated.   Somewhere a Lancair builder has posted information about issues he's had with aileron hinges wearing and one thing he's found is to use a larger rods.    Teflon tubing that can be inserted over the hinge pin to eliminate a little play and also to eliminate the steel to aluminum contact.

Chapter 20 Step 7 Left Wing 08/23/2015

Left rudder is cut out.

Glass cut for inside edges.

Layups are done with peel ply.   Also ordered some Click Bonds to use to eliminate exposed rudder hinge screws.

Chapter 20 Step 5 & 6 Aug 18 2015

The left winglet is on, both inside and outside layups are done and the lower winglet is attached.   Another builder posted photos of a modified winglet that had a cavity for a camera looking toward the fuselage, belly and rear cowl of the air craft.   Would be handy to see if all is well, prop clear etc.   

Chapter 20 Step 5

Almost ready for the layups, still need to prepare the bell horn and rudder cable conduit.

Chapter 20 Hidden Bell horns

*Hidden bell horns are a modification and not per original Cozy MK IV plans. 

Getting ready for the inside and outside layups but need to install the hidden bell horns now while its easier.  

The original instructions are for installation in a LongEZ,   Also the instructions for installation while you're building assume you haven't installed the rudder cable conduit yet, so the conduit (per original plans) needs to be positioned where it can line up with the cable attach point on the bell horn.    The plans say you need (maximum) 26 degree deflection or 4.5 in. travel at the lower trailing edge.  Also the cable swage needs .7 in. clearance between the conduit at maximum deflection.


After trying another position that seems to take advantage of the shape of the arm for clearing the corners, this may be better and attain the min/max deflection:

This position aligns better with the original plans location of the conduit.

In trail position:

Bell horn placement if using a 7.5" hinge point:

Edit-Update - in hindsight, the pocket that the bellhorn goes into needs to be large enough for a borescope to fit in (about two finger width).  I made one a bit to small and have to remove the rudder to inspect the cable.  The other is large enough for the borescope to fit in and look at the pocket where the thimble gets pulled into.  Not getting the cable and peddle geometry correct can be hard on the cables if the rudder is bottoming out to soon before the brakes actuate.

Chapter 20 Step 4 7/13/2015

Vacation, work and personal life are making it hard to keep progressing.   But anyway I've been trying.... Some day, I'm going to make fantastic progress.  Unless I get paged at 0430 and...  oh wait....Oshkosh is next week.   Well maybe after that...dang the weather is getting hot.   May have to move into air conditioned comfort to keep working on this.



The winglet was bondoed onto the wing and then flipped over, then I went on vacation.   Then came home and found the foam I'd set the wing on had compressed enough to push down on the winglet and the bondo popped loose.    So started over, set the wing a little higher and also stacked foam under the winglet tip to help steady it there.

I wasn't clear on which bottom winglet went where so emailed and got an answer.  I'll be looking closely at others while in Oshkosh.  There's been a lot of modifications by builders here with blended winglets, smaller lower winglets (or none), full length rudders, extended rudder travel.   One prize winning builder told me in OSH that one thing he'd do differently would be to put a sacrificial piece of oak on the bottom of the winglet.  

I remembered in my piles of parts I had the hidden rudder bell horns (in the photo laying approximately where it will be installed).     With it were several versions of instructions.   The URL on one set of instructions isn't valid anymore.   There's plenty of builder web sites that turn into rabbit holes and I'll spend hours looking at them.   No wonder these "pre-Internet" guys built faster than we do now.  ;-)

Chapter 20 Step 3 6/8/2015

These have been setting for awhile, so vacuumed the dust off and double checked measurements.   Wish there was a video how to do this.   There's three pieces here, the wing, rudder and winglet.

Basically, cut a little bit out of the wing, fit the rudder and attach it and the winglet.   Then cut out the rudder and attach the hardware.  Wish it was as easy as it sounds.