The previous builder's canopy TB1 (turtle back bulkhead) was 1" to far aft and did not come down on the shoulder support/back rest. It appears TB1 needs to come down on the shoulder support if there was a roll over. I removed TB1 with the Fein tool and floxed and glassed it back in. A 1x2 with bondo dabs held the canopy shape while it cured. A friend watched me do some of the BID taping and commented he did not have the patience to do that type of work.
I also filled (West 410) and sanded the inside of the carbon fiber cowls to prep for epoxy primer. Several folks said you want the inside to be light or white to make it easier to see. Also a smooth finish will be easier to wipe clean.
The bottom cowl already had some oil drips when some oil dripped out of one of the plastic spark plug caps. I tried cleaning with wax grease remover (bleh), then Dawn (meh) and then used Gojo and rinsed it a few times, then used Dawn to clean off the Gojo and it seems to have cleaned it. No evidence has appeared on the 410 filler. Fly specs on some of the epoxy wiped surfaces come off easily with Woolite and warm water.
One of the Camloc holes needed to be repaired and some other small repairs were made on the cowl edges.
I trimmed the rear arm rests where the fuel site gauges protrude. Then I sanded the arm rests and pondered whether to fill and sand them or just epoxy primer them. I studied the inside of the nose where the SPI primer had been used to ascertain if the primer would fill the peel plied texture and see that one coat probably would be glassy smooth/easy to clean.
I've only got one quart of Zolatone but think I'll only use it on the canopy and interior visible surfaces so may be enough. I think some builders used two quarts, but they did everything including seat ribs, thigh supports and under the instrument panel.
The epoxy primer appears to be pretty tough. A drop of flox had cured to a spot inside the nose and it was like it was stuck to glass. It was strong enough to hold a wire harness and fuel lines in place.
