Matco brakes

I'll add more photos later. 

https://matcoals.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/W50_51-SERIES-MANUAL-REV-E.pdf

https://matcoals.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/W51LT.pdf

Lord mounts J-7402-24

I've noticed that the #2 exhaust pipe has been contacting the lower cowl during flight or under high power settings.   Suspect the engine may be sagging a little.  The mounts have less than 300 hours on them although they've been subjected to turbulence.  I either need to replace them but will check with the group and a local IA when he's available.  These are the recommended J-7402-24 for the O-360.  The 370 weighs a little more than the 360 and is rated at 195 HP @ 2700.  

  -Update:  Lord specs indicate that dimension A should be more than .75" thick and 4 of my insulators were less than that.  At least one measured .68".  Lord tech support recommended J-7402-20 which are stiffer and also used on the Extra 200.  I've installed the new mounts and the engine seems less "wobbly".

   

Top isolator

 

Bottom isolator

SB/AD/SAIB reference for Condition Inspections

A list of links to check for Service Bulletins, Airworthy Directives and Special Airworthiness Information Bulletins: 

Andair https://www.andair.co.uk/about/service-alerts/

ACK ELT https://www.ackavionics.com/technical-library/

Avidyne https://www.avidyne.com/manual-guides/

Dynon   https://dynonavionics.com/support-bulletins.php

Matco (wheels & brakes) https://matcoals.com/technical-support/technical-manuals-and-service-bulletins/

Plainpower https://planepower.aero/aircraft-alternator-support/service-bulletins/

SDS EI/EFI   http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm

Sky-Tec https://skytec.aero/aircraft-starter-support/service-bulletins/

Titan (PMA & Experimental Service Bulletins)  https://continental.aero/pma-service-bulletins/

Vertical Power (VP-X)  https://verticalpower.com/index.php 

Miscellaneous Cozy related Bulletins and advisories:

http://www.cozybuilders.org/

http://www.cozybuilders.org/Canard_Pusher/

http://www.cozybuilders.org/newsletters/ (plans corrections)

Various items have been discussed in this group (access may be restricted): https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders

Misc:

Breaker Switches SAIB (posting a non-FAA link because they move documents and break links).  https://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.textpost&id=6a6f4b28-82cc-4fd4-8337-c240470fd3d0

SAIB - Federal Aviation Administration Special Airworthiness Information Bulletins   https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/alerts/saib

ADs  -  FAA DRS (search for Airworthy Directives) https://drs.faa.gov/browse/SAIB/doctypeDetails

ADs (Biweekly (select Small Aircraft) https://drs.faa.gov/reports/ad-biweekly

NTSB ntsb.gov  (Look for Cozy or Canard type accident reports, causes & recommendations)

Landing brake sensor added. AP roll servo relocated.

 The landing brake panel LEDs only indicate what polarity the voltage is going to the landing brake, not that it is actually up or down.  After having the console switch fail to raise the landing brake and high CHT's after taking off, decided to add a position sensor.   I used D37 P20 and configured it as the "Flap" sensor.  It took some pecking around in the configuration and found I was missing details in the EMS hardware calibration screen.  Adding 0 and 100 for the flap position resulted in widgets that displayed meaningful info.  Alternatively,  I could have used the VPX for flap control and maybe will later.  The 10K 100mm potentiometer needed a +5 volt supply, so I mounted a 4 position terminal strip and connected the EMS white/red (+5 supply) to it.  It now feeds the Hall Effect ammeter and the flap position potentiometer.

The AP roll servo was coupled to the aileron torque tube in the hell hole.  After a couple years, the rubber had hardened and was slipping.  The servos failed calibration as a result.  I opted to move the servo to the rear passenger knee area under the arm rest, near the bulkhead where the torque tube bearing is.  The challenge was to fabricate a bell horn for the torque tube and mount the servo.

I'll post photos and more details later.

Gremlins galore

 Nose gear high resistance connection. Found a bare ground splice under a wiring label in the wiring harness.

Capacitive fuel tank levels.   Reading high.  Corrected by tightening ring terminal screws on hell hole ground strip.

Hall Effect amp sensor occasionally reading negative instead of positive.  Cross checked with the VPX. -Update - seems to be working after tightening ring terminal screws. 

High fuel pressure.  Reseated the connector at the sensor and treated with LPS1 (electrical contact lubricant).

Flat nose tire.  Tire balancing beads had gotten in the valve stem seal when I checked pressure.  Cleaned out with a Q-tip and is holding now.

Red X's on CHT's & EGT's -  Remedied by tightening the ground on the engine.  The jam nut and nut were tight, but retightened and issue cleared.

#2 Spark Plug cap fell off-came unscrewed.  Fell out of bottom cowl when it was removed. -Update - replaced the plugs with solid top plugs.

SDS programmer display  backlight is working, but there's no text displaying.  Update-Barry is sending a new board. Update - board was replaced and is working again.

30 Amp fuse to distribute power for the Landing Gear, B Fuel pump and B coil replaced with a hard wire (each downstream circuit has its own circuit breaker.

Shorted PFD  - RMA'ed to Dynon.   Swapped left/right screens and trouble followed. ETR two weeks. -Update - Panel was returned and functions normally except for the temp widgets intermittently showing X's.  Update - retightened engine ground cable and the red X's cleared.

Pilot relief tube - needs more suck.  Testing with water, didn't draw out.  Need a tube moved into the slip stream to create a vacuum.  Update - tube has been extended.

Nose/leg area - still has a slight draft in flight.  Needs more sealing around the nose gear motor cover.

A quick test flight:  

EZLift Nose gear squawk

 Scenario:

I flew through a little bit of rain en route TX to Nebraska with occasional turbulence.  At the destination airport, the Cozy was parked on its nose in a transient hangar, raised it the nose, moved out of the hangar to load on the ramp.  Put the nose down to make it easier for my wife to get in.  When the gear down switch was moved, it would extend briefly and when the wheel touched the ground it stopped.  The LED by the switch stays lit.  It would retract when switched to "gear up".   Tried again to lower it, same thing even with me assisting.   Wife climbed out and with two lifting on the canard, it raised all the way up when the switch was moved to "gear down".   Initially I thought a low battery was contributing to the issue but the engine cranked right up.  

Since the LED was staying lit, it indicates that at least part of the system had power.  After starting the engine, the system is worked normally again.

I think this particular revision doesn't have high current going through the limit microswitches but will need to verify.   The schematic has a note that "colors may not match".  I think the system had at least two previous owners and the wiring was a rats nest when I got it.  Wires were cut and spliced together.  The AEX P2 plug had one jumper "to nowhere" and a power wire.  It looks like pin 5 should jumper to 6.  With the plug off, the system would not move the gear up, but would move it down.  This opened what would have been the pin 5 to 6 connection.

After parking in my hangar, I've pulled the connectors apart and am not yet finding evidence of a high resistance connections in the plugs.

I do have one of Marc's new actuators and parts minus electronics.  Also have one of Bob Bittner's boards he sold me at RR a few years ago.   I'll work on some other squawks an mull over what to do about this.

-Update 7/17/24 - I found a bare wire splice (3 grounds) that was under a wiring label next to the P1 Molex connector.  I soldered and taped the connection

6/27/2024 Test flight after oil cooler reverse scoop install

No major change, but it seems the oil is a bit cooler.  

Other prep:

Winglet fairings.   (May wait until this winter to do large radius fairings, or make some temporary smaller radius fairings.)

Wheel pant gaps.  (Fill / sanded/ painted)

Ammeter Hall Effect sensor 5 volt check.  (Found a few terminal screws a touch loose.)

Princeton fuel sensors (reading a few gallons high).   Suspect a few loose terminals on the positive buss may be a factor.  Tightened and need to test again.  - Update -- ultimately found the negative cable needed to be tightened on the engine.  This corrected the fuel and ammeter issues.

Found butterfly arm was not up against the stop when WOT.   Repositioned the throttle clamp under the sump to improve throttle travel.

Looked at the K&N filter.  It doesn't have a built in velocity stack like some performance filters do.  The intake OD is 65 mm.   Finding some stacks with screens and some performance filters have built in velocity stacks.

6/9/2024 Cozy time for a new owner. Miscellaneous squawks.

 A new Cozy owner needed some stick time for insurance purposes.  He's flown a variety of aircraft and is an ATP.  He used to own a T-18 which can be a handful to land, so the Cozy will be pretty easy for him.  We flew to three different airports and he did pretty well.  My neighbor is renting him temporary space for several months.  Hopefully, he'll retrieve his Cozy next week.

During the flights, a few gremlins popped up:

The canopy latch circuit was intermittently showing the canopy open.   Suspect the magnetic switch on the canopy is failing again.

On the last two landings, one of the main wheels had some shimmy, suspect the brake caliper was hanging up a bit.

The fuel levels displayed on the Dynon panel seem higher than what's in the site gauges.  Suspect adding MMO to the fuel has changed the dielectric constant.  May need to recalibrate the gauges. - Update - I think issue is that I had long beaded chain connected to the gas caps and it had slid under the probes.  The anchors were hanging down to far and would slide through the lower baffle holes.  I fished the chain and anchors out and shortened the chains and moved the anchors closer to the caps.   The probes seem to read correctly now.

The light colored Zolatone in the cockpit is making it difficult to read the adjacent panel due to shine/reflectivity.  Probably should get some "dash mat" and put in the strakes.

An email from the AVC (Airventure Cup Race) says I need to pick a new number, so replied with three choices that weren't already reserved.

My wife reminded me that the back windows still need tint.   

I need to work on my "speed list" for some small fiddly stuff that should be addressed to gain some micro-knots.

Cylinder head wrenches - alternative uses

 Cylinder head wrenches can be handy for torquing hard to reach bolts and nuts.  Using the wrench for the prop flange bolts makes it easier for one person to hold the prop and torque the crank flange nuts.  Getting a torque wrench on sump bolts and nuts may a bit easier than using a swivel and extension.  

Avidyne IFD alert audio not working & seat foam cushions are ready for the upholsterer.

 I'm not getting alerts from the Avidyne IFD 540 and suspect the alert audio pins aren't connected to the audio panel's unswitched audio input #2.   My audio harness was built by ACS in order to get the warranty on the audio panel.  They did mis-pin one wire but is looking like they didn't pin the alert audio wires from the IFD to the audio panel.  We'll see.

I found this on line that I'll try.   If the audio is connected, I should hear chimes when I change volume.

https://pilotsupport.avidyne.com/kb/article/221-i-am-not-receiving-flta-alerts-on-my-ifd5xx4xx/

If there's no chimes, the audio isn't connected.   Bleh.  That will probably take a good 1/2 day to remedy.

- Update....  The alert audio was not pinned from the IFD to the audio panel.  It's connected now and can be verified by adjusting the alert audio and hearing a chime sound.

I got all the seat cushion foam cut last night.   Forgot to take photos before putting it in the box, so will try to get some for the blog and post them.  -Update - a separate blog entry was started for upholstery.

2024 Condition Inspection

I'll start a post to edit/add items to that I'd like to complete during the CI:

Upholstery......(contacted a shop.  He wants me do the foam and he'll make the covers.)

Complete wing/strake fairing.  Or not.  Bolus tape doesn't look to bad.  I'd rather fly than sand...

Finish wheel pants.  (They're in primer and have some gaps, but see above.)

Touch up paint - nose door and longeron  have some chips.

Check baffling cracks. (Good)

Replace alternator belt. - Done

Canopy seal improved.

External access to canopy latch.

Landing/Taxi lights.

Heater control moved/improved.  Bowden cable..change to actuator.

Items done:

Moved headset jacks.

Installed TVS diodes on starter solenoid coil and "I" terminal.

Installed 5 Amp charging port to passenger area.

Broke ring gear support attempting to replace ring gear with a broken tooth.

Replace ring gear, install SDS magnets.  Made a jig to drill magnet holes.

Things to check on post maintenance flight:

Dynon Software update/operation.  Maintenance item list.  

Heater operation.  Canopy closed circuit.

Dynon (new) radio operation.  Headsets.

Best power TAS @ 7500' DA.

Alternator operation (new belt).

SDS (carrier replaced)

Post flight check (

short flight due to GPS issue - transponder doesn't transmit position):

Intermittent GPS signal...4 wire connector intermittent.  Removed and hard wired the connection.

Engine start - cranked and gradually opened the throttle.

Service Bulletin References for N724CZ

 

Service Bulletins, Service Advisories, Plans Corrections, Special Airworthiness Information Bulletins (SAIB)

Created 3/26/2024    Expect some of these links to change or disappear.  The FAA links in particular.

Andair (fuel selector) https://www.andair.co.uk/about/service-alerts/

ACL ELT https://www.ackavionics.com/technical-library/

Avidyne https://www.avidyne.com/manual-guides/

Dynon   https://dynonavionics.com/support-bulletins.php

Matco (wheels & brakes) https://matcoals.com/technical-support/technical-manuals-and-service-bulletins/

Plain Power https://planepower.aero/aircraft-alternator-support/service-bulletins/

SDS EI/EFI   http://www.sdsefi.com/sb.htm

SKy-tec https://skytec.aero/aircraft-starter-support/service-bulletins/

Titan (PMA & Experimental Service Bulletins)  https://continental.aero/pma-service-bulletins/

Vertical Power (VP-X)  https://verticalpower.com/index.php 

Miscellaneous Cozy related Bulletins and advisories at:

http://www.cozybuilders.org/

http://www.cozybuilders.org/Canard_Pusher/

http://www.cozybuilders.org/newsletters/ (plans corrections)

Various items have been discussed in this group (access may be restricted): https://groups.google.com/g/cozy_builders

Misc:

Breaker Switches SAIB (posting a non-FAA link because they move documents and break links).  https://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.textpost&id=6a6f4b28-82cc-4fd4-8337-c240470fd3d0

SAIB - Federal Aviation Administration Special Airworthiness Information Bulletins   https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/alerts/saib

ADs  -  FAA DRS (search for Airworthy Directives) https://drs.faa.gov/browse/SAIB/doctypeDetails

ADs (Biweekly (select Small Aircraft) https://drs.faa.gov/reports/ad-biweekly

NTSB ntsb.gov

Dynon SV-COM-425 RMA

My last flight, got a good radio check at the run up area but after taking off, got a reply that my transmit audio had become "weak and scratchy".    I pulled the module, opened it up but didn't see any physical damage.  The pins/sockets of the 25 pin connector looked okay.   The nut holding the antenna connector to the case wasn't very tight, but the threads were plastic so apparently the bulkhead connector's case wasn't a functional ground.

I'd opened a case with Dynon and got an RMA for the radio.   I'm not certain which model I'll get back but will probably have to repin the 25 pin connector.  Shipped priority express, two day.  

Dynon also announced a software update.  Unless told otherwise, I'll wait until the replacement radio is ready to install before upgrading the software.

Update - Dynon appears to be sending a SV-COM-760 and adapter cable.

Canard stick time/nose tire low pressure

I gave a fellow some stick time so he would be closer to getting insurance.   He did pretty well and noted that the Cozy was much faster than his older GA aircraft.  We did standard maneuvers and some touch and goes and got fuel at Graham.  

When we got back to Hicks, I checked the front tire pressure and found it was at 10 psi.  so aired it up to 45 and also checked the mains.   One of the valve core filter stems "filters" got stuck in the valve stem so I drilled the plastic out and put in a short valve stem.   

EZnoselift installation

 Marc Zeitlin's clamp modification to the EZNoselift should eliminate bolts unscrewing and or bending.  It was not hard to install.

Oil samples for 2023 looking good.

 I'd taken oil samples at each oil change (4) since changing from break in oil to XC20-50.  

The lab reports:

MICHAEL: Our thumbs are still up for the 12/06/23 sample. Metals pretty much stayed the same after the

longer oil run, leaving us with no concerns about how this engine's oil-sharing parts are getting along at

136.6 hours. Lead's higher level is just due to the longer oil run --it's from blow-by and it wasn't excessive

for the run. Dirt, water, and fuel stayed out, and insolubles remained low. Nice results all around!

Cozy builder visit David Desosa

 David has been building a unique Cozy.  Apparently it was a Cozy III morphing into a Cozy IV, one of the first prototypes.   I invited him out so he could go for a ride and take a close look to see if anything I did could help him with build decisions.

We departed T67, went past Stevenville, then North to Graham for 10 gallons of fuel.  About 20 miles West of Hicks, dialed up the radio to see what runway was in use and it was quiet.  Then I radioed we were over the lake and now there was a Cessna taking off staying in the pattern, another student about 8 miles out and two Christen Eagles a ways to the North.  I fell in behind the Cessna in the pattern, the Eagles did a 360 for spacing and I think another aircraft said he was the only aircraft in the pattern.  I called that I was 1 mile final behind the student Cessna and the Christen Eagle said my audio was low.  The targets on the screen when clearing the runway showed three or four aircraft on final and a couple more out west.  Wow!  Busy!  As I was taxiing the Eagle called, "GOOD JOB EVERYBODY!"

Back in the hangar, I pulled the cowl and a screw dropped out of the bottom.  The #2 valve cover was missing one so that mystery was solved quickly. 

A few things popped up on this flight.  The ARINC module went off line, the standby network went unavailable and the fuel pressure glitched to 75 lbs. a couple of times.   The EFIS data was uploaded and will be analyzed for clues.   

I have some 15 volt TVS diodes & some capacitors ordered.  I'll install a small mylar cap across the pitch trim servo since it has generated a bit of noise on the GoPro audio.

The heater control is located where the fuel valve is usually located and is a pain to get to.  I'd like to move it to the side or instrument panel.  An alternative is to implement a servo.

The Telex headset I've used for passengers seems to not get my transmit audio when talking on the radio.  I'd suspected it was in mono mode but checked the dip switches and seems like its set for stereo now.  When we took off, we had some scratchy audio that was cleared by reseating the headset plugs.  

So the squawk list has: ARINC module/standby network alerts.  Noisy headset audio/jacks.  No pilot transmit audio to the copilot.  Move heater control.  Replace missing valve cover screw.  Check the fuel filter, pumps and regulator.  Check connections on the copilot HDX panel.

An email from Marc Zeitlin advises the nose gear clamps have been shipped.  Tracking info shows it will be here tomorrow.

Starter damage, ring gear and broken teeth.

 Gremlins of a particular species like to break off ring gear teeth and kill starters.

Improper clearance between the starter and ring gear.  This is attributed to a known issue with new Superior ring gears and the Skytec 149NL starters having zero clearance. Destroys starters.

Flipped trigger wire on an EI coil.  This caused the wasted spark to occur on the bottom of the intake stroke causing a kick back.

Starting the engine without sufficient fuel pressure/momentarily bumping the starter switch.

Timing not retarding or advanced when starting and light weight props.

Only missing one tooth this time.

The first issue was resolved by replacing the starter.  Oddly, the issue didn't seem to occur until after several initial engine test runs.  I'd started the engine, was wearing a non-ANR headset and could hear a clattering ring ring sound.  I shut the engine down and quickly found the starter had not disengaged.  It shelled a bearing.  Although it had only been used a few times, it was out of a two year warranty.   A call to tech support at Skytec quickly diagnosed the issue was due to the dimensions that Superior and Skytec used to make these components resulted in no clearance between the gears.  A shim would be required to increase the clearance so that the starter would disengage properly.  

Aeroperformance aka Aircraft Spruce near me had starters in stock so I ordered one.  The price had gone up considerably since I'd purchased one several years ago  There is also a refundable core charge that is dependent on Skytec inspecting the core.  

I made a pattern from the starter's mating surface and fabricated a .020" thick shim out of 2024T3.  The starter was mounted and clearance checked based on instructions from some hot rod web sites.   The starter then disengaged properly after that.  

Shim for starter

So, back to first engine runs... The engine would start fine but then one day when starting....a nasty crunch & kickback sound indicated there were still gremlins.  Ultimately, this cause was attributed to one of the EI coil trigger wires being transposed causing a spark at the bottom of the intake stroke.  

All was well for months, but then one day when for some reason (distraction), I'd neglected to turn on the fuel pump(s) and I'd usually also been able to start the engine by just bumping the starter switch. This is my theory, but apparently when the fuel pressure is low and the injectors fire, only a minuscule amount of fuel enters the intake and if the cylinder that's on the bottom of the its stroke, finally accumulates enough fuel to fire, the engine kicks back.   Since that episode I ensure the fuel pumps are operational before starting and I keep the starter engaged until the engine cranks up.  It is odd that the shear pin in the starter didn't let go before breaking a teeth off the ring gear.  Fortunately others with the same EI/EFI and similar engines haven't had this problem.

The flywheel and ring gear have to pulled off the engine.  I asked some local pros if they'd done this before but no luck.  Searching the interwebs for replacing automotive ring gears found several methods.  One was to heat the ring gear with a hot torch to expand it and it would either fall off or with a few pops with a hammer, come off.  I tried this initially but after paint started blackening decide to try the cold chisel method.  Since this method breaks the ring gear, it made sense to help it out by cutting a slice as deep as possible without damaging the surface under the ring gear.  There is a lip that the ring gear is against so a round cut off wheel can only go so deep, but weaken the gear.  The assembly needs a very solid surface so that the chisel strikes are effective.  Place the ring gear retaining lip up so that the ring gear is driven away from it when it is struck from above. The chisel head is placed in the slot that was cut. A 3 lb. hammer, large cold chisel, gloves and eye protection are prudent.  I tried multiple light strikes initially but didn't make any progress.  Experience revealed on the last two ring gears, that it took three solid whacks to break and depart the ring gear. The ring usually moves a little on the first whack, more on the 2nd and breaks on the third. It comes off faster than a scared cat so heavy gloves are needed to protect your hands.  

Cold chisel and slit cut in the ring gear.

  

3 whacks later.

Installing the new gear is easy.  It's important to verify the tooth count is the same.  The U shaped teeth are on the 149 count gears and V shaped are on the 122 count gears.  The ring gears teeth are machined so it's important to mount the gear with the machined side towards the starter oriented away from the retaining lip.  Make sure all of the mating surfaces are clean and free of burs.  Heat the new gear (oven works fine) to 375 - 400F.  Put the other part in the freezer.  When you're ready...and wear gloves to handle the hot ring,  drop the ring gear on.  It is so loose it spins around but in less than a minute, it will have shrunk and secured itself.

The ring gear will fit in a countertop oven.

Fortunately I haven't had any issues for awhile but will keep watch for those gremlins.

Update - I installed a TVS diode across the starter motor relay contacts, suspecting that the starter motor EMF was causing a spike that caused an ignition spark on the bottom of an intake stroke.  The kick back seems to happen when the starter switch is released.

Tosten PTT switch replaced

The push to talk switch still worked but was requiring a bit more deliberate squeeze to transmit.  Probably the victim of abuse from of an occasionally white knuckled test pilot.  

The pilot's control stick was pulled apart to access the push to talk switch.   Tosten had mailed me instructions and a replacement circuit board with two switches on it.   Unfortunately, after popping the stick apart it was found that the circuit board didn't match my model, but the switches on the circuit boards were very similar.

The old button was unsoldered.   One of the good switches was unsoldered from the new board and replaced the old switch, then contacts were checked to ensure operation wasn't affected after being soldered back.

Reassembly is a bit of a challenge because the PTT trigger spring easily comes loose if the trigger moves when the switch halves are mated back together.  There were multiple lengths of screws holding the stick halves together so I made a mental note which ones went where and managed to get them back where they belonged.

The stick was reinstalled then tested.  

New charts were out so the memory cards were updated.

Test flight - CHT balancing - VOR approach - Oscar Pattern

The SDS Fuel values were tweaked to remedy a rough idling after start issue and seemed to help.  Apparently my version 3 values were to rich for the cooler engine temps below 90F. 

Despite adding some deflectors to the lower cowl ramps, #1 is still the coolest.  I think I'm going to make something more adjustable and remove the deflectors.  I might try to see if there's a way to use a servo to adjust the ramp lips in flight.  Then find an optimal position and semi-permanently fix them there.  

I did a test flight from T67 to MWL via MQP (VOR to 31).   Everything seemed to work except for the VNAV/ILS.  As far as I can tell, the Dynon settings appear to be correct but I'll consult with a friend and adjust if necessary, then test again.  The nice thing is it did follow the approach.   Unfortunately, the pattern and RNAV approach was busy so left the area to the North.

I did about 75% of an Oscar pattern, and got disoriented but did a total of 3 360 turns/climbs and descents.  I spotted a tower nearby as I was descending so terminated the practice.  The radio traffic at Mineral Wells was still busy, so headed back to T67 rather than try another approach.