Update 03/31/22

So yesterday the first start was good but I noticed a strange "whop whop" sound.  Then I realized I hadn't clocked the prop correctly and the exhaust was reflecting off the blades.

The next engine start trashed the ring gear again.   This time the missing teeth were 180 degrees from the last time (cylinder 2 versus cylinder 1 TDC).  I'll disconnect the ECU and coil plugs and make sure the coil trigger wires are where they're supposed to be.

 I was looking at the starter and decided to call Sky-Tec after finding there was a FAQ about Superior ring gears and 149NL starter issues.   The tech advised there was a Textron SB 1447 B that specified a shim to lower the starter to improve the starter releasing from the ring gear.  He said that over the years, the tolerances and machining have improved and with the new ring gears and starters, the clearance decreased so may require a shim that can be made (or purchased).   He also said that a way to check the starter is to put it on the bench, run it and look for the shaft to wobble.  A few thousands was acceptable.  He advised to contact him directly rather than ACS for warranty work if it is needed.

I've ordered a few fuse blocks to relocate the power from the VPX for the primary ECU, fuel pump & top coil so they're running directly off the Essential Buss to eliminate the .2 voltage difference between the A and B computers.  I'll examine the grounding to eliminate any voltage potentials between the computer and coils.

The belt driven alternator field and output wires are in the same tubing as the heavy starter cable for about 3 feet so may be getting induction when heavy current is flowing to the starter.   There are a few inches on the cold side of the firewall where the Essential buss power parallels the starter cable too that I will reroute.

The starter relay suppression diode SB560 1536G tested okay.   The way these are installed suppresses the relay coil field when it collapses but seems there should be one across the starter motor contacts as well.

I'm found some connections had loosened.  One was the large negative battery connection to the starter contact and the starter positive had loosened some.   I started ohming out the trigger wires again, to be sure they were correct. and my old Amprobe voltmeter started reading erroneously.  Ugh.  I headed to the computer and found some of the EM5 documents have been updated.  I'm looking for the coil trigger wire pins which I think are 9 and 11.