Chapter 20 Step 7 08/30/2015

Rudder hinges going on after layups cured.

The hidden rudder bell horn results in odd placement of the attachment holes on the bottom hinge.   Click Bonds were ordered and will be used to eliminate the exposed screw heads like you might be able to see on the ailerons.

Also, where the extra lay ups are to reinforce the hinges are, should have been clamped down similar to how the hard points are done in the center spar.   This would provide a flatter mounting surface for the hinges.

And... the -6 hinge has to be trimmed to fit as its to wide.   Alternatives may be do take out more foam or order the -5 hinge instead.   

And the last tidbit is, don't leave the hinge pin in if you're cutting the hinges with a band saw.   The blade will spin the pin and it will remove the annealing.   The pins may either be stainless steel or hard carbon steel and react with aluminum if not coated.   Somewhere a Lancair builder has posted information about issues he's had with aileron hinges wearing and one thing he's found is to use a larger rods.    Teflon tubing that can be inserted over the hinge pin to eliminate a little play and also to eliminate the steel to aluminum contact.

Chapter 20 Step 7 Left Wing 08/23/2015

Left rudder is cut out.

Glass cut for inside edges.

Layups are done with peel ply.   Also ordered some Click Bonds to use to eliminate exposed rudder hinge screws.

Chapter 20 Step 5 & 6 Aug 18 2015

The left winglet is on, both inside and outside layups are done and the lower winglet is attached.   Another builder posted photos of a modified winglet that had a cavity for a camera looking toward the fuselage, belly and rear cowl of the air craft.   Would be handy to see if all is well, prop clear etc.   

Chapter 20 Step 5

Almost ready for the layups, still need to prepare the bell horn and rudder cable conduit.

Chapter 20 Hidden Bell horns

*Hidden bell horns are a modification and not per original Cozy MK IV plans. 

Getting ready for the inside and outside layups but need to install the hidden bell horns now while its easier.  

The original instructions are for installation in a LongEZ,   Also the instructions for installation while you're building assume you haven't installed the rudder cable conduit yet, so the conduit (per original plans) needs to be positioned where it can line up with the cable attach point on the bell horn.    The plans say you need (maximum) 26 degree deflection or 4.5 in. travel at the lower trailing edge.  Also the cable swage needs .7 in. clearance between the conduit at maximum deflection.


After trying another position that seems to take advantage of the shape of the arm for clearing the corners, this may be better and attain the min/max deflection:

This position aligns better with the original plans location of the conduit.

In trail position:

Bell horn placement if using a 7.5" hinge point:

Edit-Update - in hindsight, the pocket that the bellhorn goes into needs to be large enough for a borescope to fit in (about two finger width).  I made one a bit to small and have to remove the rudder to inspect the cable.  The other is large enough for the borescope to fit in and look at the pocket where the thimble gets pulled into.  Not getting the cable and peddle geometry correct can be hard on the cables if the rudder is bottoming out to soon before the brakes actuate.