Chapters (Blogger Labels)
- Chapter 01 Description and Introduction
- Chapter 02 Bill of Materials
- Chapter 03 Education
- Chapter 04 Fuselage Bulkheads
- Chapter 05 Fuselage Sides
- Chapter 06 Fuselage Assembly
- Chapter 07 Fuselage Exterior
- Chapter 08 Head Rest and Seat Belts
- Chapter 09 Main Gear & Landing Brake
- Chapter 10 Canard
- Chapter 11 Elevators
- Chapter 12 Canard Installation
- Chapter 13 Nose - Nose Gear & Brakes
- Chapter 14 Center Section Spar
- Chapter 15 Firewall
- Chapter 16 Control System
- Chapter 17 Pitch and Roll Trim
- Chapter 18 - Canopy
- Chapter 19 - Wings/Ailerons/Attach
- Chapter 20 - Winglets & Rudders
- Chapter 21 - Strakes
- Chapter 22 Electrical System
- Chapter 23 - Engine Installation
- Chapter 24 Armrests
- Chapter 25 - Finishing
- Chapter 26 Upholstery
- Cozy Builders
- Flight Testing
- Landing Brake and Center Console
- M Drawings
- Seats and Fairings
Sunday, August 30, 2015
Rudder hinges going on after layups cured.
The hidden rudder bell horn results in odd placement of the attachment holes on the bottom hinge. Click Bonds were ordered and will be used to eliminate the exposed screw heads like you might be able to see on the ailerons.
Also, where the extra lay ups are to reinforce the hinges are, should have been clamped down similar to how the hard points are done in the center spar. This would provide a flatter mounting surface for the hinges.
And... the -6 hinge has to be trimmed to fit as its to wide. Alternatives may be do take out more foam or order the -5 hinge instead.
And the last tidbit is, don't leave the hinge pin in if you're cutting the hinges with a band saw. The blade will spin the pin and it will remove the annealing. The pins may either be stainless steel or hard carbon steel and react with aluminum if not coated. Somewhere a Lancair builder has posted information about issues he's had with aileron hinges wearing and one thing he's found is to use a larger rods. Teflon tubing that can be inserted over the hinge pin to eliminate a little play and also to eliminate the steel to aluminum contact.
Monday, August 24, 2015
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
The left winglet is on, both inside and outside layups are done and the lower winglet is attached. Another builder posted photos of a modified winglet that had a cavity for a camera looking toward the fuselage, belly and rear cowl of the air craft. Would be handy to see if all is well, prop clear etc.
Sunday, August 9, 2015
Tuesday, August 4, 2015
Getting ready for the inside and outside layups but need to install the hidden bell horns now while its easier.
The original instructions are for installation in a LongEZ, Also the instructions for installation while you're building assume you haven't installed the rudder cable conduit yet, so the conduit (per original plans) needs to be positioned where it can line up with the cable attach point on the bell horn. The plans say you need (maximum) 26 degree deflection or 4.5 in. travel at the lower trailing edge. Also the cable swage needs .7 in. clearance between the conduit at maximum deflection.
After trying another position that seems to take advantage of the shape of the arm for clearing the corners, this may be better and attain the min/max deflection:
This position aligns better with the original plans location of the conduit.
In trail position:
Bell horn placement if using a 7.5" hinge point:
Related sites for information, parts and support:
- Unofficial Cozy Builders Site - updates to plans and much more information (maintained by Marc Zeitlan)
- Cozy Builders - Google Groups
- Official Cozy Aircraft Site
- Builder Sites (maintained by Erland Moen)
- Cozy IV Specs
- Canard Aviation Forum
- Central States Association - Facebook
- Experimental Aircraft Association
- The Canard Zone
- Rutan Aircraft Flying Museam
- Dennis Butler's Grand Champion
- Aircraft Spruce Cozy IV Parts
- SDS EI EFI
- Skycraft Surplus
- Cozy Girrrls
- NIck's web site
- Infinity Aerospace