Chapter 23 Engine Installation - Mount from CG products - CF Cowls from Freeflight Composites

CF Magnum (boat tail) Cowls from Freeflight Composites.  9 .lbs total.

The dynafocal type 1 mount for the fuel injected 360.

Click on Chapter 23 label above for more posts.

Chapter 21 - Strakes

Check the templates for corrections:
http://cozybuilders.org/cad_files/Cozy_MKIV_M-Sup_1.2_Draft.pdf


The strakes will be modified "Cozy Girrrl style" which provides elbow room in the cabin and an alternate path for antenna cables and the wing tip light wires.   A few sheets of foam were prepared a few months ago and set aside with the peel ply still on.

   I pulled them out and used the table saw to cut to the appropriate widths where R33 and B33 are one piece rather than having to bond them together.    The 17.4 water line is marked on the ribs and bulkheads as well as the wings & fuselage using a laser.

 I used a couple of hole saws with a jig in a drill press to make the openings in the ribs and bulkheads.

Since the top of the strake is flat (on my copy of M drawings)*, the pieces can be assembled upside down on a flat table. *New M-drawings now show a "loft" on the top of R57.   If you use the modified R57, you'd have to raise the baffles and R33 about 3/8" to use this method.  I think that builders that made a rib on the end of the spar that matches the contour of the wing have slightly mitigated not having R57 with the "wing loft".  

 The R57 rib's leading edge sets back about 3.5" further than R33.  EZpoxy is being used for the fuel tank.

I clamped a board on the bottom side of the spar to support the ribs.   I used bondo to hold  some scrap boards on the top of the longeron the end of the spar.  Shop light stands and pop sickle sticks worked good to get the ribs aligned on the water line.   I also marked BL 33 and BL 57 on the canard and ensured the ribs were still parallel.   The build lines were found and marked on the spar by finding the center line on the back of the firewall.   There's also supports under the winglets to keep the whole thing steady while the glass cures.   The additional bulkhead* where the fairing block goes is held in place with bondo and pop sickle sticks.  *Some builders have had a sag and this was recommended to mitigate the sag by the Cozy Girrls.

The foam for the skins between BL 33 & BL 57 are cut and waiting for the inside glass and will be shaped to the ribs after cure.

Cuts through foam 1/2" apart - CG suggestion.   Plans say 1".

Test fitting.   BAB, TTE, OD and TLE not installed yet.   Was to cold for Epoxy work.

Chapter 25 - Finishing - tools/results

I'd spread some left over MGS epoxy/micro onto the gear leg fairings and it had set for about three months so was cured and hard and messy.  MGS micro is notoriously hard to sand.   Fortunately I found some new Flexisander tools that appear to be superior to the flat boards and the 3M sanding board.    I used the electric sander and cleaned up this mess in about 30 seconds.   The tools are expensive, but I'm not dreading the finishing process like I had been previously.   LuAnn used to help her dad in his autobody shop and encouraged me to get these tools when she saw videos of them being used.   These have vacuum ports and there was very little residue from sanding.

Flexisander D Starter package includes two sanding boards, a fairing knife and an electric sander.   The sanding boards use 4.5" paper and the electric uses 70 mm paper.

Chapter 20 Aveo 3 in 1 Nav/Position/Strobe lights

These draw 7 amps max.   There's a wire to sync the strobe flash.  The number of LEDs lighting for the strobe function changes whether the Nav lights are on.  You'll see spots after you look at the strobes when they're lit.  Fairing block attached temporarily with screws.   I added another block and sanded down to fair in as shown in the plans diagram.

Chapter 20 hinge mods - Teflon tube inserts & click bonds replace screws.

One of the easiest mods which eliminates play and fretting of the hinges. A teflon tube is inserted a with smaller hinge pin and screws replaced with click bonds.

A Dremel with a router head attachment and depth set to create a recess deep enough to a click bond.  To ensure the click bonds are parallel when floxing them in, I used a 1x2 block with holes to keep the click bonds straight.    A 1" two ply BID strip was applied over the click bonds. 

Rudder prepped for click bonds.