Chapter 23 - Engine installation progress

Installed new Lord mounts.
Installed the engine dataplate on the cold air sump.
Installed the belt drive and pad mount alternators.
Installed the fuel block.
Ordered the machined governor adapter plate and installed the 2" crankshaft plug (to convert to fixed pitch prop).
Removed the 1/8" NPT intake plugs and installed the SDS EFI bosses. I used a heat gun to get the intake plug area up to 160 F and was able to break the plugs free by tightening and then loosing them.

Blogger is giving server errors when I try to upload photos.

Prop governor adapter.

The prop governor adapter.

I had to drill out the old rivets on the sump to install the new engine data plate.

The SDS fuel block mounting holes match the center of the case.

Intake is installed.

The factory baffle was a bear to get off due to the amount of silicone adhesive used.

Crank plug installed.

The SDS dual pick up is installed.  The gap between the flywheel and sensor was checked.

Coils and pad mount alternator are mounted.

Titan 370 engine hung

We uncrated the new Titan engine and mounted it Saturday.

I'd ordered it with a hollow crank and wanted the ability to convert to a CS prop, but didn't expect to have the governor adapter mounted on the engine.

It's relatively easy to convert to a fixed prop engine or use a modified block off plate that has a machined oil passage and install a plug in the crankshaft.

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Conversion%20from%20Constant%20Speed%20to%20Fixed%20Pitch%20Propeller%20and%20Vice%20Versa.pdf

Painting complete (excluding wheel pants)

We finished shooting the cowls and canard yesterday with base coat and clear coat.  Have some fish eyes on them but not bad for a garage paint job.

I need to finish balancing the ailerons.   The elevators are okay but only by about 3 1/2 degrees.

So in hindsight a few things I'd do differently:

After sanding/filling/priming, I'd use a DA sander with 600 grit to remove any texture.  Then seal with a coat of reduced primer (but read the FAQ for the product to see what is recommended).
I'd check with my local painters (and not paint store) to see what products they recommend.   I followed their recommendations on grit for prepping.  On some parts that I'd previously painted, they had me wet sand with 1000.

On the cowls and canard, after spraying the Southern Polyurethane Epoxy Primer 5% reduced as a sealer, then shooting base/clear they noted it didn't take as much base coat to cover any spots where spotting putty had been used.

So...since spotting/filler compound tends to shrink, any larger places that are still rough but not to larger or deep, fill with West Systems and micro, then sand and recoat with West (to avoid pinholes), sand and then prime.

Wheel paints aren't installed or built, so there will be some more painting required in the future.