I'd emailed Ross at SDS about some things I was going to check and he replied back with the suggestion to remove the bottom spark plugs, leave the fuel off, remove power to the bottom spark plug coil and run the engine with the starter to check the timing.
The results puzzled me so I asked a friend that used to build race engines take a look. We determined the trigger wires were swapped causing 1 & 2, and 3 & 4 to fire at the wrong position. It was easy to depin the white and white blue wires from the Weatherpak plug, swap them and test. The timing was as expected now. Reflecting on why they were transposed, goes back to an earlier run when the top coil wasn't firing and thought I'd transposed the wires and also misdocumented one of the pins. Now I'm wondering if the original issue of the top coil not working was related to the panel switch or VPX programming.
A negative battery cable connection was a little loose at the firewall and tightened.
During several early sessions running the starter with the new ring gear, noticed the bendix wasn't popping back. After multiple sessions running the starter with the plugs out, the ring gear teeth (when new, have a rough finish) were getting more polished and the starter wasn't hanging up anymore.
I'd also noted that the primary/top computer's voltage was 13.2 and the bottom was 13.4. I'd like to move the power source for the top one off the VPX and to a breaker/switch feeding off the Essential Buss. It may as well be there since the engine will not run without the Essential Buss. My earlier thinking was that I could see the exact current draw, but it is so low, the VPX doesn't read it.
The alternator belt (Dayco 15350) is still in good shape but I was going to put a new one on. It was really tight so put the original one back on. I might try a 15360 belt next time.
Will do a short test run tomorrow when my friend and an IA will be here, then put the cowls back on.
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