7/31/2022 Flight test 4 - 2nd attempt

 1/4x20 Baffling screw was laying in the bottom cowl.  Found it was from the #1 cylinder.  Applied blue Loctite and tightened.

Oil appearing to be coming from top case bolts where Adel clamps were installed.  Will retorque and plan on applying Loctite 290 if leak persists.

Oil coming from aft side of the cold air sump.  Will retorque and plan on applying Loctite 290.

Bolus tape came loose on the pilot side strake/wing gap.   Need to decide if roll is mitagated well enough and the wing incidence won't be changing.  Then fill the gap and repaint when the wheel pants are ready.

The IAS Pitot static calibration continues.  Fixing the leak in the nose compartment resulted in an additional 2 knot error.  I replaced the silicon tubing on the static port and will need to retest.  I'll try Jim Weir's test.  http://www.rstengineering.com/rst/articles/KP89JUL.pdf

The compass calibration was completed at MWL.  

Suspect I have swapped the left and right brake sensors as after landing, the right brake was showing hotter than the left brake, despite some heavy use of the left brake.  Will test with a heat gun.

The HDX system / buttonology is still challenging me.  I need to watch training videos again and take notes.  The transponder seems to automatically working now as well.

I did landings at MWL, XBP and T67 using the Navy style oval approach and my landings are much better.  https://youtu.be/SuhStmbUccE

Added 18 gallons of fuel at XBP, flew back to T67 using the AP heading mode and it worked pretty well.  It needs some tuning.  It seems a little unresponsive, but does seem to be working better.  

IAS previous flight:

70 KIAS = 84.1
90 KIAS = 103
100 KIAS = 111.1
110 KIAS = 121.4
120 KIAS = 134.3
130 KIAS = 145

Now:
70 KIAS = 86.2
75 KIAS = 90.3
80 KIAS = 95.4
90 KIAS = 104.3
100 KIAS = 110.7

Stopped testing here to get fuel and remove shredded Bolus tape.

7/30/2022 update

 The number crunching from Flight #4 Pitot-Static calibration revealed why some landings were so terrible, I was eating Cessnas in the pattern and others commented I was "hauling ass" when departing on downwind: 

70 KIAS = 84.1
90 KIAS = 103
100 KIAS = 111.1
110 KIAS = 121.4
120 KIAS = 134.3
130 KIAS = 145.5 

Another item added to the squawk list....find leaks, check for bugs.

Update - pulled the static line, blew air backwards through it with a piece of shop rag taped over it.  Some tan sand granules came out.   Then I remembered my first flight, visibility was 6 SM due to Sahara dust.  I ran the zero calibration.  The tubing adapters at the ADAHRS seemed a little loose as well so got about 1/4 to 1/2 turn on them.  Blowing air and plugging the end of the pitot line resulted in a hissing from the nose compartment.  There was a 1.5" piece of silicon tubing that connected the aluminum tube with the Dynon tubing.  I replaced it with smaller diameter tubing and then it would hold 40 psi.

The oil seemed to be coming from aft side of the sump to case.  I pulled out the manual and followed the sequence to torque all 20 bolts to ~100 in. lbs.  Some were good, but most needed tightened a little.

The Autopilot pitch force was set to 50%.  The manual advises if I can override the AP when the Level function is activated, I can increase the force to default (100%), so did.  The pitch was already at 100%.

Update 7/29/2022 Fourth Test Flight

Using the check list more diligently, I manually switched the transponder to ALT before taking off to ensure ADSB tracking was available for my "safety crew".   The right panel displaying full engine gauges.

30 gallons of fuel versus 12 gallons was noticeable.    A little bit of a crosswind added to momentary concern of how much difference the last wing incidence change was going to have.  After liftoff in ground effect while the airspeed climbed, the controls were good.  The CHT's were looking good, more balanced.

The addition of another 1/2 washer has negated the right roll.  However the Auto Pilot needs more force to roll left otherwise complains of roll slip.   It was nominally functional for doing the cardinal headings and air speed calibration.

DA of 8000 was at about 5500 AGL today with an OAT in the 70's.  Much nicer here than at the surface. 

I completed the 4th flight test card - Pitot Static Calibration and need to "do the math".

 Later today the thermometer at the hangar was reading 108, then a thundershower rolled through and dropped to about 80.

The GoPro's Velcro mount came loose from the top inside of the canopy when I was on downwind for 14 @ T67 resulting in a loud pop.  At the time, I didn't know what caused the pop at the time but gently rolled left and right, pitched up and down, kicked the rudders a little and controls seemed normal, engine gauges were good.  Maybe a Bolus tape came off and went through the prop.  At least I was downwind at an airport.  I usually would do a low speed pass, go around and land but this time I was committed to land.  Apparently had jinxed myself by previously posting a video of a relatively good landing, so naturally I had a rather less than spectacular landing today.   At least the GoPro was laying on the floor in the back and failed to record it.  Everything happens for a reason. 

Update 7/27/2022

 Post flight (1 hour) after installing lower cowl baffle aft of the NACA diffuser:

Hottest CHT after initial climb is still #3 @ 446F and coldest is no longer #1, but now is CHT4 @ 422 F.

At a DA of 10000' WOT,  hottest to coldest was #3 397, #2 392, #1 381, #4 370.   Recall that 380F is about the ideal temp for valves to not get deposits.

The Dynon LOP tool didn't write the detail I was expecting to the logs, so I'll need to do screen shots next time and possibly see if I can read it off the GoPro video.

There's still a right roll so will add another 1/2 washer and touch up the baffle and diffuser.   There was a 1/4" gap on the copilot side of the diffuser and caused a whistle.  Might be why #4 was now the coldest?  I'll make the tweaks and test again.

I changed the oil (6.5 hours) because it had gotten a bit dark.  Also drained as much as I could out of the oil cooler by taking a hose loose.  The oil screen had a small piece of red plastic that looked like came from an oil bottle.  I haven't cut the filter open yet.  I added back 8 quarts of Aeroshell 50 wt. Mineral Oil.

The transponder didn't automatically switch to VFR when I took off.  It took me a bit to realize this.  Unfortunately Flightaware only shows part of the flight after the transponder was switched to VFR.  Again.  My wife watches this to see where I am, so she gave me some feedback about it.    I also didn't raise the landing gear because I intended on watching the CHTs to determine whether to land immediately or continue testing.  I was a ways out before realizing the gear was still down.  I think I need to populate my check list with items to check when departing the pattern.

KAFW had recently reported gusts to 20 knots.  As usual, our airport is "fun" coming in on  RWY 14 over hangars and RR tracks, but my neighbor complemented my landing and sent me a video of my "squeaker" landing.  It's better to be lucky than good....  

Update 7/25/2022

More tuft testing and examination of the plans resulted in the decision to put in a modified lower cowl baffle to fit the boat tail cowl.   A 60 degree baffle 5.5" from the front edge of the cowl and two side baffles that went from the edge of the diffuser to the sides of the boat tail were installed.  Tuft testing afterwards seems like more air is going into #3, but I'm doubting the leaf blower is doing a good job of pressurizing the cowl, so flight testing will be the best test.

A small gap between the copilot side of the diffuser and the edge of the NACA inlet was found and needs  to be correct before next flight.

I was looking for more information on the Dynon Lean Tool and found this in one of the SkyView Training Class videos:   Dynon Lean of Peak tool YouTube video  There were also some tips from the instructor on adding more helpful information to the Engine page.

Some of the oil I'd found on the case was from the 1/4" case bolts, so retorqued them according to the appendix B chart (90-110 .in lbs.).  

Update 07/24/2022

 One of the squawks that was lower on the priority list was the Auto Pilot wasn't functioning well.  After correcting the right roll, it seemed better but still wasn't taking good command.  I recalled that during the airworthy inspection the DAR pointed out that I'd properly labeled the pitch trim operation but had logically reversed nose up/down.   To correct this I moved the pitch up and pitch down labels and reversed the polarity at the actuator.   What I neglected to realize that in section 18 of the Dynon installation manual, there's a trim motor calibration procedure that had been done.  The system runs the actuator and you answer what action just happened.   I ran the procedure and sure enough, the pitch control from the AP was inverted.   Easy fix.

Also, I may have mentioned this before, but I'd turned on the pitch trim scheduling feature.   Fast trim was set for 95 KIAS and below.   Slow trim was set for 150 KIAS and above.  During the last flight, the pitch trim wasn't operating like it had on earlier flights.  So I went into the settings and set fast trim for speeds below 135 KIAS and slow trim for above 150 KIAS.   Not sure what happens in that 135-150 KIAS range.  Maybe the trim doesn't work.  We'll see.

I'd had a few minor issues with the radio....or rather operator error with the Dynon radio.  If you push the flip/flop button in for more than 4 seconds, it puts the radio into dual monitor mode.  How about that!  

Hopefully, one remaining squawk I hope to address is the compass calibration.   We don't have a compass rose on our field so may go to MWL on the next flight to attempt the compass calibration.

I spent some time watching adsbexchange for traffic at OSH.  Also watched some of the cameras and listened to the North/South Towers on liveatc.net.  As usual, there was some red on the radar coming from the West.

I did more tuft testing and had chatted with Vance again.  He said he took quite a few tries to get his CHT's balanced using a variety of cuffs, scat tube etc.   He resorted to riveting aluminum in and bending it to get it tweaked and then made glass cuffs and patched the rivet holes.  He also had a servo controlled adjustable NACA lip to change the amount of air entering the cowl.   I laid up some BID, UNI and Soric to make some stock material to use for cuffs and it should be cured in the morning.

The swamp cooler I've been running in the hangar began spewing water and created a swamp near my work bench.  I grabbed a mop and a squeegee to clean up the mess and called it a night.

 

CHT airflow videos

 Here's several videos of tuft testing.

Cowls are on, NACA diffuser is the only device in the lower cowl.  No ramps or cuffs directing air.

Diffuser only. View 1.

Diffuser only View 2.

Added a 90 degree 5" duct to point at #3

Replaced the 5" duct with flat ramp.  Video 1  Video 2

Update 7/22/2022

One day was spent in comfortable air conditioning updating the engine and air fame log books.  The logs are electronic spreadsheets on line and hard copies.  It is tedious but will be nice to have this handy for looking up parts etc. 

Two flights completed yesterday (but not any test card flights), one from T67 to XBP and returned to T67.  It was hot.  My phone shut down.  OAT was a little under 100F on the ramp.

The right roll and had much improvement after increasing the bottom left wing washer 1/2 thickness.   However on take off, seemed like the nose pitched up more than it had in the past but may be attributed to having more fuel on board (30 gallons) and the pitch trim was set for pitch up.

After departing the pattern, the CHT's were still showing a delta with #3 the hottest, #1 the coolest.  I closed up more baffle seal openings.  I'd inserted some temporary pieces in the baffling for #3 and #4 to the same size opening as #1.  I chatted with Vance and will begin testing ramps or cuffs in the bottom cowl to direct more air into the hotter cylinders.

After clearing Class B, I noticed the transponder was still in STBY even though I'd changed the programming to enable AUTO.  I manually switched the transponder to AUTO from the panel and it showed it was active.  Flightaware showed the flight picked up near XBP.  The disadvantage of AUTO is that when working in the hangar, if there is no GPS signal, the transponder will go into ALT mode.  Manually switching to GROUND will keep it in GROUND.  Checking the transponder and switching to AUTO at engine start up will be added to the check list after turning on the ALT Field.  Since the system should have GPS signal it won't automatically switch to ALT until it detects air speed.

The right roll tendency squawk was replaced with an electric pitch trim squawk.   I was having to push forward on the stick and unable to initially trim it out.  I flew some of the cardinal headings at ~125 KIAS but was diverging altitude to much.   I turned back to T67, slowing and descending under Class B and continued trying to adjust the trim and suddenly the trim seemed to be working.   Later I recalled that I'd turned on the trim scheduling in the Dynon AP settings.  Now that the trim was working I decided to go to XBP for more testing and turned on the AP.   It seemed better now that the roll tendency was gone but still not functioning well.  Hmmm.   So now I remember during the airworthy inspection, the DAR noted I had properly labeled the pitch up/down but had it on the stick backwards from what pilots ordinarily do.   To correct the issue, I just flipped the power wires to the pitch servo.  The power wires come through the AP panel.  Time to look at the installation guide again since there's a pitch up/down calibration that probably needs to be redone and possibly the top hat switch to AP panel pitch wires flipped.  Later in the hangar with a power supply connected to the system the pitch trim motor was running as expected but I noticed the stick didn't feel right....it was horrible!  Then I found the power supplies wires had jammed between the elevator and fuselage.  Doh!

At XBP I did some pattern work, with a low pass, touch and go and landing for fuel.  The wind changed directions so I departed on 36 with a light crosswind from the right.  I'm noticing that with more weight, I'm flying the canard with the main wheels on the ground more.  Kind of like main wheel landings and taking off in a tailwheel.  

The radios/audio had me puzzled a little.  I think the Dynon radio standby audio was on as I was hearing traffic that wasn't selected on either radio but was one of the standby frequencies.   Will have to read the manuals some more.

Update 7/16/2022

 I'd found the VG's weren't exactly symmetrical on the main wings, off about 1/8" so pulled them all off  (canard and main wings) to eliminate them as a contributor to the right roll issue.

The rudder pedal foot pegs had been moved forward, but the left peg bolt threads snagged in the nose sidewall pocket that had been made for extra pedal clearance.  I moved the pegs back one hole for the flight and will make adequate clearance so the foot pegs can be moved forward.

The right roll still persists so I consulted with Vance.  He advised the rule of thumb is to shim out the opposite wing by adding a 1/2 washer to the bottom outside bolt.  So by adding 1/2 washer to the left wing's bottom outboard bolt, the left wing will have less lift and negate the right roll.  I'd installed the wings with the -L washers originally so replaced the bottom thin washer with a thick washer.

The Titanium exhaust wraps didn't seem to help much.  Hottest cylinders are 3,4,2 & 1 in that order.  There's about a 50F degree delta between the hottest and coldest.   Vance advised that he's tried a variety of things in the past and blocking the air on the coldest cylinder had worked for him so I might give that a try rather than building ramps or cuffs.

The attempt to calibrate the compass failed so I'll plan on installing the remote magnetometer.  

The fuel flow seems more accurate with pulses set at 48000 but will take some longer flights to zero it in.

The prop clocked at 3/9 resulted in a lot of carbon on the prop.   Also the prop stops vertically when the engine shuts down.  I reclocked it again, this time to 11/5.   I think this will be similar to 1/7.   

The transponder didn't transmit my position when I flew from T67 to XBP because I'd set it to Ground the night before when I was changing fuel settings etc.  Flightaware was showing me in flight.   Reading the manual, depending on software and hardware, there should be an Automatic button, or I may have to set it to Alt and it will switch automatically when air speed is detected.

I checked the nose wheel castoring preload and found it was pretty light so tightened it up.  Vance suspected the grease I'd used on the large brass washer has squeezed out and caused it to loosen.

The canopy and gear warnings are working well.  I may lower the gear warning to under 100 knots.

The new throttle cable is sweet.   I'm doing quite a bit better controlling airspeed and maneuvering in slow flight by listening to the rushing air sound changes.   I still ate a Skywagon's lunch in the pattern and had to do a 360 to get more spacing.   Also had a truck pull out onto the runway when I was on short final so did a go around.   I think my landings have improved immensely.  It was nice to land at XBP with a 5000' runway.

I didn't get much done on the 3rd test card but am happy that I got to improve my flying skills and am looking forward to addressing the squawks so I can go fly again!

Update 7/15/2022

 I decided to remove the VG's after checking the distance from the leading edge to the outboard reference line and found one side was 1/8" different than the other.  I attribute this to micro and fiberglass thickness differences when the winglet was attached to the wing.

The nose wheel castor nut needed to be tightened.   Checking preload, it was inadequate.  I think it loosening up can be attributed to being set was when the ambient temp was 40F cooler and also it's new.

Update 07/14/2022

 Heat wraps are on the exhaust.  Will need to run and heat the exhaust to burn off the coating.  Taxiing down for fuel should get them hot.  Need to add approximately 14 gallons of 100LL.

Checked and tightened the terminal strip screws for the VPX, firewall grounds.  Need to check the ones near the EMS220/hell hole area.

Put the cowls back on.

Reclocked the prop from 1/7 to 3/9 since there was still exhaust smudge on one blade.  My safety wire skills needed the refresher.  Only had to redo a pair of bolts three times.

Fuel Flow - 64000 pulses per gallon was changed to 48000.

Moved the foot pegs from the 2nd to last hole to the last hole and put higher seat cushion and thicker back cushion pads in.  Edit-the bolt/foot peg snagged the side of the nose where I'd made a cheek to accommodate forward rudder travel.  Found this on the next engine start when I put the brakes on hard.

Made some notes for additions to the start up/running procedure to verify the injectors are firing off either ECU, the O2 controller's power is on and the SDS screen is in one of the gauge modes.

The flight test cards will be updated with reminders to use the heading and altitude bugs.

After taking off on the next flight, the compass will be calibrated by flying two 360's in opposite directions.  Note if the right roll tendency has improved with adjusting the aileron torque tube to lower the right aileron trailing edge approximately .05".   The rudders are fully returning inboard now.  Previously, the right one would stick a little due to the machined clevis on the brake master cylinder's piston.  The left one seemed to stick out less than 1/2" occasionally that I attributed to some paint runs/drips under the hinges.  Apparently the heat and use has made it operate normally now.

I dialed up a local VOR on the IFD540 to see if it picks it up on the next flight.

Mike's Skunk works

 I'll use this post to track some things in progress, completed or I'm dreaming up.   One item that was completed is the brake shield temperature sensors, so it's been moved to the "mods" page.

Thinking about:

Lightning detection - connected to the Dynon EMS220.   Flying into 2023 OSH, we were skirting weather and saw lightning as we neared Fisk, yet it didn't show up on ADS-B weather.  Mouser sells lightning detection chips or Amazon sells lightning detectors (with counters and distance estimation).  The LED warning could easily be connected to an unused input on the EMS 220.  Possibly three of these units could be used to provide direction as well.

RF Direction Finder - Would be handy for SAR locating ELT beacons.   Or errant chatter.

Whistle tubes - I've had neighbors (one's hangar is near the end of one of the runways) note that the canards landing here make a whooshing sound when they cross midfield or are on downwind,  attributed to reduced power and low engine noise.  I think it would be fun if I could make some whistle tubes that were exposed and active when either the nose gear was down or landing brake lowered.  Or possibly inside the lower cowl.   Or maybe install a truck air horn.  :-)  https://youtu.be/XKQP_qz4B9A?si=Bst9vdi2goVg_FOQ

Jigs for drilling the wing hard points, leg bows & other common parts that could be interchangeable.

In progress:

Installation of TVS (Transient Voltage Suppressors).  I've added some 30 volt and recently got a batch of 15 volt diodes.  They're placed across relay coils and inductive loads.  The starter's motor still isn't protected and probably delivering a pretty big punch.   The EarthX battery's BMS system when it becomes charged seems to isolate the cells if the alternator is keeping the voltage within range somewhere above 13 volts and below 14 volts.   The result is that some noise may not be getting absorbed like it would into a lead acid battery.

Planned:

Strain gauge squat sensors mounted on the leg bow and nose gear strut - connect via Wheatstone bridges to open channels on the EMS 220 module for detecting take off, landing and measuring leg bow deflection on landing.  Optimally, could be used for indicating gross weight and CG.

Custom Cozy cooler.  Goes somewhere in the back or maybe strake pocket.  Holds 10 or more .lbs of ice., drain valve T's into pilot relief drain tube.  Update - So far we just plan on early morning departures to avoid cooking.  

I need an alert that the buss or master switch has been left on when the engine is not running.  I tried a low voltage alarm but it doesn't go off when the battery is fully charged after a flight.  I'm thinking a pressure switch in the pilot's thigh rest would be a good logic point for activating an alert.

Landing/taxi lights.  Currently leaning towards installing on the outboard leading edge of the main wings.  https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-leading-edge-lights/

Completed:

Double Bazooka antennas (VOR and ILS).   My canard didn't have the plans copper foil antennas installed.   As a substitute, I've made some of theses antennas and will test them out.   There's comments elsewhere that people have used these on aircraft and gotten good performance with them.  I've connected them to an Avidyne IFD540 and need to test.  Update - the VOR antenna works.  Still need to test the ILS antenna.  Update #2 ILS antenna works.

Improved NACA diffuser installed (07/12/22).   The newer diffuser is smoother and stiffer than the original which had a little droop that was impeding cooling air.  I'll see how the exhaust heat wrap performs before attempting more changes.  Update - I've added ramps to put more air into #3 & #4 cylinders and have continued tweaking on them.   May try to make these adjustable so they can be fine tuned.  Since the diffuser works, I've moved this to completed.

Added a Koger Shade  https://www.kogersunshades.com/ (as heat mitigation).

Failed/Not worthwhile:

Titanium exhaust heat wrap.  (07/13/22) Cylinder's 3 and 4 are the hottest, which have exposure to the longest exhaust pipes.  It appears some of the downsides to using wraps can be avoided by not over-wrapping the pipes (1/4" overlap recommended by DEI).  Also not getting the wraps wet and letting them set for extended periods of time.  Update - tried this and removed it.  Didn't seem to help.

7/13/2022 update

 We took a family break and am back to toasty hot Texas.  Typically it's over 90 in the hangar and 100+ outside.  Good post curing weather.

The new NACA  diffuser was glassed in last night.   The new Cablecraft throttle cable is installed and is buttery smooth.

For now, I decided to forego cuffs for the #3 and 4 cylinders and put Titanium heat wrap on the exhaust pipes, test and then decide what to do next.  Commentary on the Internet about exhaust pipe wraps varies.  Some people have had no issues for years and others have had problems, usually attributed to having mild steel pipes rather than stainless, over wrapping the pipes, getting the wraps wet and not getting enough heat into the engine to dry the moisture out of the wraps.  Galvanic corrosion seems to be an issue with some types of wraps as well. 

The directions for the DEI Titanium wrap advise to put the wrap's stitched edge exposed and overlap only 1/4".  The #3 exhaust pipe has to be contributing quite a bit of heat to the air flowing through the engine.  #4 is shielded a little with the cabin heat muff so will be interesting to see the results.

I've also peered over the Dynon EFIS data quite a bit and realized that I should be using the heading, VSI and altitude bugs to make it easier to correlate the data with the test being performed.  A remaining task for the HDX system is to calibrate the magnetic compass.